Training gear for climbers

Training plan for climbers 6c-7a

It’s based on wave periodization – is a way of planning training in which different stimuli (strength, power, power endurance, technique) appear rotationally and regularly, instead of being locked in long blocks, e.g., when you train one attribute (like strength) all the time while others are merely “maintained”..

Why?

• Because just going to the climbing wall 3× per week is not enough, as the body is already adapted to that stimulus.
• Without structure, you stagnate

I see this in 90% of climber friends: they climb and climb… and stay at 6b–6c for years. I must admit I was like that too.

This training provides structure but does not lock you into rigid rules.
You can adjust intensity, and the main stimuli return every 14 days — so you don’t neglect anything.

Day 1. Maximum strength on boulders
Day 2. Rest Day / No-Hang Pocket Board
Day 3. PE (Power Endurance)
Day 4. Rest Day / Forearm exercises on Roller / Anti-contusion exercises on the ring
Day 5. Rope: Hard routes, RP attempts at the limit + projecting
Day 6. Rest Day / Cardio: running / swimming pool
Day 7. Strength + dynamics on Kilter Board
Day 9. Power endurance OR strength (depending on Weak and Strong points from FGRAV.COM)

If lacking strength → repeat hard moves on boulders
If lacking endurance → second PE session

Day 10. Rest Day / No-Hang Pocket Board
Day 11. Aerobic endurance + technique (ARC + DRILLS)
Day 12. Rest Day
Day 13. Additional recovery day to prevent fatigue accumulation. Worth dedicating to mobility session
Day 14. Rest Day / No-Hang Pocket Board

💪 Strength and Dynamics – two elements still missing in my climbing.

In everyday climbing, with my height of 195 cm, I also have a long reach – so I perform most moves statically. I admit that sometimes I even manage to skip the crux with a long reach. But this comfort comes at a cost: more mass and longer levers, making overhangs a real challenge for me.

Therefore, in this cycle, I focus on training my weak points – hoping for long-term effects and solid 7a in the first two attempts in the future.

🎯 Kilter Board

• Type: strong, energetic moves in controlled overhang,
• Style: twists, long reaches, flags, cross grips, jumps, holds on small edges
• Set 1: 6 attempts at 70–80% (e.g., 6a / 6a+)
• Set 2: 6 attempts at 80–90% (e.g., 6b)
• Attempt duration: 1 full sequence
• Rest time: 3–5 minutes
• Intensity (RPE): 7–9
• Pro tip: make sure to warm up properly, Kilter can be merciless for your fingers. Start each session with activation, not injury
• Wall angle: if you are just starting with Kilter (like me), don’t try to be a hero at 40°. Better start gentler – reduce the angle, get used to the holds, and gradually increase difficulty. I started at 15°, which was a very good decision

🎯 Boulders

It’s similar to Kilter, but they have a greater variety of holds – from small edges to slopers, and movement finesse designed by the route setter.

Short, hard sequences on boulders – especially overhanging ones, with dynamic moves that are missing on Kilter.

• Type: designing boulders in the V4–V6 range. Short sequences of 2–3 moves with high intensity
• Style: dynamic moves, strong holds, heel hooks
• Set: 12 maximum attempts
• Attempt duration: 5-second max-move series
• Rest time: 3–5 minutes
• Intensity (RPE): 8–10
• Pro tip: try problems just below your limit, but complete them with strong, dynamic moves. Or hit a problem at the absolute limit and do 1–2 moves.

🔥 Endurance & Technique

🎯 ARC – Improving Aerobic Endurance + Technique

ARC (Aerobic Restoration & Capillarity) training consists of long but easy climbing. This develops capillary density, which leads to faster recovery and greater resistance to pumped forearms.

If you are near Krakow — I recommend the first part of “Sadystówka” at Zakrzówek. A long, ~50-meter wall that allows solid endurance training in natural conditions.

• Type of climbing: easy routes (5a–6a), long move sequences without rests
• Sets: 3–5 routes without resting, 1–2 minutes per route
• Rest time: 2–3 minutes
• Intensity: 4–5 RPE (easy climbing)
• Tip: concentrate on smooth, efficient movements. Try to minimize swinging and keep body tension

🎯 Technique

If you climb continuously for 15 minutes anyway, it’s worth combining endurance training with technical exercises. This is a workout where I focus on fluidity, route reading, conscious breathing, and movement economy.
The less energy you spend on each sequence, the greater distance you can cover.

• Twists. Makes reaching distant holds easier.
• Drop-knee. Choose routes with natural twist sequences, but also try drop-knee where not obvious. Training their conscious use makes them come naturally later in harder conditions.
• Pause Drill. Stop for 1–2 seconds before each move. Builds tension and conscious body control.
• Downclimbing. Descending the route helps learn sequence reversal and maintain focus. In one 15-minute set, I often do 3× up + down, equivalent to completing 6 routes.
• Foot switches. Train foot switches as much as possible. Look for micro-edges and other non-obvious spots you wouldn’t dare on a normal ascent.
• Resting. Practice resting even in uncomfortable positions. When you find a rest, shake the “pump” alternately with each hand. Learn to judge if a rest “returns energy” or costs more than it gives.
• Twist in rests. Sometimes a good twist can turn a pointless position into a surprisingly effective rest. Practice finding spots where hip rotation suddenly relieves 20–30% load.

🎯 Anaerobic Endurance – Interval Training

This training is an excellent complement to classic ARC. It combines medium-high intensity climbing with short rests, developing the body’s ability to recover under fatigue.

Effect? Greater resistance to “the pump”, improved anaerobic capacity, and preparation for continuous, difficult route sections.

• Set duration: 2–3 minutes
• Number of sets: 10
• Rest between sets: same as the time it took to complete the last route (or max 3 minutes)
• Route difficulty: 6a – 6c
• Intensity (RPE): 7–8

✋ No-Hang Board

Training on a no-hang board is a way to develop finger strength without overloading joints and tendons. Ideal for active recovery.

📈 Progress Monitoring

To ensure training actually leads to improvement, it’s worth regularly monitoring progress using simple, repeatable tests. Feelings on the wall are often misleading — sometimes you feel strong, other times tired, and only hard data shows if you are truly progressing.

Therefore, every 6–8 weeks we perform a set of tests: MVC for fingers, weighted pull-ups, finger strength — all exercises are fully described on FGRAV.COM.

The key is to repeat them under identical conditions, ensuring reliable results. Tests allow detecting stagnation, adjusting the plan, and precisely observing whether the periodization applied actually works. This way, you train smarter, and progress becomes predictable and measurable.